Outside the Royal Festival Hall

Royal Festival Hall

This month’s music came courtesy of a friend who was singing in Verdi’s Requiem at the Royal Festival Hall. This piece has the largest choir of all and was an impressive and moving performance, especially my friend of course! The hall itself is wonderful and I’ve posted a photo of the stage with performers and the outside of the hall at dusk.

The world’s longest toilet queue was a charity event for Wateraid – campaigning for access to safe water and sanitation for all. We formed and orderly line outside Parliament with Gordon Brown masks to lobby for policy changes and at least got lots of press attention!  It was a Guinness world record attempt as there were queues forming all over the world so I hope we made it.

World's longest toilet queue

Platform 9 3/4

A day trip to Cambridge is well worth doing for visitors and residents alike and it’s not far so you can drive there or take the train. I chose the train this time and here’s one for the Harry Potter fans – you can visit platform 9 ¾ and I’ve posted in a photo to prove it! Cambridge is beautiful with its old and atmospheric colleges, river with the famous punting and cobbled streets with lively shops and restaurants. A couple of photos will give you an idea of it all.

Kings College, Cambridge

Cambridge

The photography exhibition I’ve chosen to mention was the Irving Penn at the National Portrait Gallery which traced his development over his career and he certainly had access to some of the most famous people of the era – from Greta Garbo (see poster photo) to Wallis Simpson to Truman Capote. He used black and white and very spare settings even to the extent of taking people right in the corner of a plainly painted room – amazing to see Wallis Simpson in that pose and you can see her confidence shine through.

Irving Penn Exhibition

There’s one really big art show in town at the moment – the Van Gogh at the Royal Academy. They have a great selection of his work and letters between Vincent and Theo his brother. You can trace his development from a self taught 27 year old, via his early work practicing perspective to his fabulous paintings and very sad death at the age of 37. His brother was an influence and support and it was amazing to see the letters with little pen and ink sketches of what was to become a great painting.

The theatre highlight was ‘Polar Bears’ at the Donmar Warehouse which had wonderful performances and a somewhat unresolved plot. We bumped into one of the actors at the bus stop on the way home which was rather unglamorous for her (as she said) but she, Celia Imrie, was lovely and as it was the first night she was very keen to hear what we thought – how refreshing!

Now here’s the restaurant selection.  The Dock was the most interesting as it’s a converted warehouse on a small dock section of the Grand Union Canal that serves one offs such as Iraqi night where a set meal of Iraqi favourites are offered to intrigued customers. The food was great and the building impressive – see photo. The best food was at Hibiscus, a 2 star Michelin restaurant who were doing a lunchtime special deal which made it affordable. I love all the extras at these types of restaurants – the amuse bouche before and the sumptuous chocolates after. The newest was Raymond Blanc’s Brasserie which was only at week 2 and the nearest to home was Hereford Road in Notting Hill which is full on meat and seafood.  There were more but I don’t want this to become a total foodie blog!

The Dock

I’m looking forward to April as it’s shaping up well with everything from the Marathon to bike rides, theatre to some great restaurants. I’ll be back to report on that in a month.

Sue

www.itsyourlondon.co.uk

Related posts:

1. Life in London… a look back at 2010
2. Life in London – August 2010
3. Life in London – January 2010

January has been dominated by the weather and although London has fared much better than other parts of the UK, it’s very unusual for us to see any snow at all. It’s been the focus of conversation and has made travelling for many people really difficult as we are really not geared up for this rare occurrence.  Boy has it been slippy on the icy pavements!  Also, events have been cancelled, including my photography course which I was very annoyed about. On the up side it has been quite beautiful at times and have a look at these photos of Notting Hill in the snow – Portobello Road itself, a flower stall in the area and one of Notting Hill’s pretty gardens.

Photos of the snow in London

We got out and about for an arty day along the South Bank of the Thames, visiting the Hayward Gallery and Tate Modern.  The Hayward was showing Ed Ruscha: 50 Years of Paintings.  The Tate Modern’s key exhibit was in the massive turbine hall and was a huge black box conceived by Miraslaw Balka. We walked into complete darkness with our hands out in front of us and it was completely disorientating, Eventually we came to the back wall covered in velvet and turned round to be amazed that we could see back into the full light which had been there all the time. To me it was about different perspectives but the concept was much sadder and reflected on recent Polish history of ghettos and concentration camp trains.

On a more cheery note, but continuing the art theme, I went on an Artfeelers tour in London’s East End. Artfeelers is a new company which offers small tours of contemporary art galleries and shops, guided by Claire Flannery, whose brainchild this is. We were taken to wonderful new places, talked to the owners and Claire gave us great insights into what we were seeing.  Below are a few photos – one of some street art (the squirrel), one of some of the interesting work in one of the galleries and one of a container which hosts Caveman Bob – a video installation of the cave of a Canadian (Bob!) with his commentary on what’s in his cave. The container’s interior is also cave like but made of plywood and makes the most original setting.

Street Art - The Squirrel

Art work shown on the Artfeelers tour

Caveman Bob Container

There has been a bit of shopping done as the January sales have been very good and it’s been hard to keep out of the wonderful department stores such as Selfridges, John Lewis and Harrods. However the bank account has survived so I can’t have been that naughty!

A couple of good restaurants and bars to tell you about. I always get asked to recommend a good pub which I find hard as so many pubs are full of slot machines and are not comfortable at all. The Churchill Arms in Kensington is a notable exception as it is big but cosy, full yet not rammed and has lots of different sections to explore and all with enormous amounts of stuff hanging off the walls. The outside is no exception as you can see in the photo and you can imagine when the hanging baskets are in bloom, it’s quite a sight. It was the first pub to offer Thai food which is now so widespread.  The food here is good and extremely reasonably priced.  A new bar which is part of Mark Hix’s Soho restaurant proved a welcome refuge for us from the snow, it’s called Hix as he’s so famous now he needs no surname (!) and the downstairs bar offers the right mix of smart, cool and friendly with a couple of wines that do not break the bank and the world’s best parsnip crisps, clearly made to order. It can be almost as hard to find a good bar as a good pub and Hix hits the spot for me.

Churchhill Arms in Kensington

A more upmarket restaurant to note is La Sauterelle in the Royal Exchange, formerly a centre of commerce built in 1844, but now a very posh shopping, eating and drinking area. We had one of January’s special restaurant deals and the meal was extremely good with the lamb being worth a special mention for its fullness of flavour.  The photos show the exterior and interior of this fine building that really add to the dining experience.

La Sauterelle in the Royal Exchange

Inside La Sauterelle

I’ll be back from Africa mid February to report on the best that London has to offer!
Sue
www.itsyourlondon.co.uk

Related posts:

1. Life in London… a look back at 2010
2. Life in London – April 2010
3. Life in London – March 2010

The Parisians may be the more experienced lovers, the Londoners better dressed, and the Romans famed for their dolce vita. Yet hardly any other city in the world boasts a day-to-day way of life where food and drink play such an important role as in Vienna.

Viennese social contacts have always been nurtured in culinary contexts, to greater or lesser extents. Even Viennese politics has been a springboard for gastronomical traditions. Just think of the many famous dishes that are now regarded as “Viennese cuisine”, but actually originated in allied and enemy states of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The legendary Vienna Schnitzel is from Milan, the goulash from Hungary, the apple strudel from Turkey and the divine cakes and pastries from Bohemia. Indeed, it has to be said that even Emperor Franz Josef’s favorite Tafelspitz — the tender epitome of boiled beef refinement in Vienna — has its roots in Italy.

There are typical Viennese dishes to suit every pocket and one can choose from an absolutely enormous spectrum of eateries. They start from street-side booths dishing up fast and inexpensive snacks, including the favorite hot sausage — be it the classic wiener, the coarser Burenwurst, the relatively spicy Käsekrainer, or Leberkäse, a kind of spam. Then there are the Viennese answers to international fast food chains, the schnitzel outlets, and finally the highly acclaimed gourmet establishments. ”Steirereck” has for years experimented with traditional recipes, raising what were formerly “pauper’s dishes” to the higher echelons of world cookery.

Yet the nerve center of classical Viennese cuisine is the Gasthaus — the good, homely inn. These places have made a remarkable comeback in recent years, for instance “Eckel” in the 19th district, the wonderful belle époque “Zum schwarzen Kameel”, “Zum schwarzen Adler”, “Huth” and the original, pioneering “Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer”. Viennese hospitality and tradition are celebrated, accompanied by wide-ranging contemporary cuisine with seasonal ingredients, local products and sophisticated wine culture.

Nothing beats a Good Old Pub

Yet Vienna’s “staple” establishment is the Beisl, the small corner pub where you will typically be offered a “Seidl” (0.3l beer) or “Achterl” (0.125l wine) to drink, and goulash or Beuscherl (offal casserole) to eat.

The term Beisl originates from Yiddish and translates approximately as “small house”. Although they are a kind of democratic institution and are universally loved, most of them have disappeared over the last 20 years. Those that have remained have taken on almost cult status, with the likes of “Bauer Gustl”, “Herkner” and “Zum Scherer” now counting among the city’s most frequented places.

Vienna’s schnitzel mecca, “Figlmüller” boasts the largest and thinnest schnitzels in town as well as three locations to choose from. You simply cannot get enough of these schnitzels, and regulars are joined by celebrities and business executives savoring the traditional fare. At “GmoaKeller” behind the Konzerthaus you are spoiled for choice with a virtually endless menu of original dishes and many old-Viennese specialties. And those preferring to escape the urban jungle a little can head to Vienna’s green suburbs and shady inn gardens, for instance to “Grünspan” (a former vintner’s house in Ottakring),or “Prilisauer” in Penzing, a typical old-Viennese inn that nurtures tradition and dishes up outstanding cuisine. There is also ”Pfarrwirt“ in Heiligenstadt which was leased by businessman Hans Schmid as part of the acquisition of the neighboring “Mayer am Pfarrplatz”. This medieval building complete with delightful baroque hall is now a contemporary restaurant.

Many newer Beisls have also established themselves in the last decade, taken over by young, ambitious chefs on the lookout for modern, sophisticated Viennese cuisine, who nevertheless remain loyal to their roots. Good examples include the tremendously popular “Grünauer”, the classic “Schnattl” close to the Theater in der Josefstadt, the unique “Meixner“ in the 10th district and “Weibel’s Wirtshaus” where owner Hans Weibel also boasts a virtually inexhaustible wine list.

Strength in Numbers: the Grätzels

In recent years, the bar and restaurant scene has witnessed a boom, and just like in other cities a phenomenon has evolved which the Viennese refer to as Grätzels — sub-districts or groupings of establishments. On account of their composition and flair, they have attracted patrons with individual tastes.

The legendary “Bermuda Triangle” — where trendy bars and pubs literally shot up in the historic district between the synagogue and the ancient St. Rupert’s Church in the early 1980s — was a pioneer of this genre in Vienna, as were the uncountable pubs and cafés in the narrow Bäckerstrasse. The picturesque Biedermeier ensembles in Spittelberg (7th district) have also witnessed a new lease of life, the dynamism of which has spread to the neighboring streets. The same has happened with the “Schlossquadrat” at Margaretenplatz, at establishments around the university and right behind on the campus of the old AKH (general hospital) and in particular at the Naschmarkt. This market located at Wienzeile, once regarded as conservative, has in the last few years become the ultimate rendezvous for Vienna’s young, hedonistic population of international taste — particularly on Saturdays.

Morning is the time to browse and taste, while the surrounding bars and restaurants remain busy into the night hours. The Naschmarkt and the neighboring Freihausviertel are among Vienna’s most lively districts. This development has also caught on around other beautiful Viennese markets such as the Brunnenmarkt, Karmelitermarkt and Rochusmarkt. Although smaller in area, they are equally vibrant and enjoyable.

Ethno: the International Flavor of Vienna

The unprecedented boom in ethnic cuisine also reflects international trends. Taste-buds from all over the globe are catered for, from Mongolian and African to Tibetan. What has really taken the Viennese by storm, however, is Mediterranean cuisine and Asian diversity.

First class gastronomy can be found at “Fabios” where South Tyrol’s local hero Fabio Giacobello creates Mediterranean specialties in a stylish mahogany setting, seriously appealing to guests’ tastes. At the “Novelli”, situated at the heart of the peaceful antiques district between Hofburg and Kärntnerstrasse, Konstantin Filippou cooks the contemporary creative cuisine which is currently causing something of a sensation in Spain, combined with subtly modernised Italian classics. The “Da Moritz”, run by the Huth family, interprets (among other dishes) pizza in a slightly newer and more creative way, and is one of Vienna’s very best Trattorias.

Contemporary Chinese restaurants “Goldene Zeiten“ and “ON“ are places where creative Shanghai cuisine and Austrian wine come together. “Yohm” boasts an exciting fusion of Asian culinary tradition in a cool design setting, while “Nirvana” adds a bit of Indian to the blend, and in the “Indochine 21” restaurant just opposite the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK) you travel foodwise to Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. And, in the tiny designer “Kim kocht” restaurant, the essence of Asian spices is explored in a frequently experimental and fascinating way.

More than just a Bite to Eat: Culture meets Cuisine

Museums, theaters and other cultural venues have witnessed a surge in culinary innovation, resulting in a varied and opulent restaurant scene.

In the “Österreicher im MAK”, top chef Helmut Österreicher (holder of the “4 Chef’s Hats” award), Museum Director Peter Noever and a group of investors are putting into practice a completely new restaurant concept. They are setting the standard with a congenial new chain of restaurants which offers a successful combination of traditional and modern Viennese cuisine.

One of the city’s popular culinary haunts, “Vestibül”, occupies the former imperial entrance wing of the Burgtheater. Mussel dinners are the order of the day once a week at the venerable Museum of Natural History (except in summer) and in spring you can dine on asparagus there. In the basement of the old stock exchange building you can breakfast and take in the flair of Vienna’s finest florist at “Hansen”, and even the Gloriette in the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace has been transformed into a designer café.

Vienna’s up-and-coming creative artists meet up at the “Kunsthalle” café. A motley mix of promenading locals and tourists can be found in the century-old Palmenhaus (Palmery) of the Burggarten, where a spacious brasserie has been accommodated beneath the steel and glass structure following extensive renovation work. And just everybody who wants to be somebody meets in one of the designer, ethno or young gastronomy restaurants at MuseumsQuartier or at “Aux Gazelles” on the corner of Rahlgasse/Mariahilfer Strasse which combines Moroccan culinary lifestyle with an adjoining Hammam steam bath.

Ringing the Changes: Wine Taverns & Coffeehouses

The surge in innovation in Vienna’s pubs and restaurants that now spoils you for culinary choice would maybe lead you to believe that at least the traditional oases of tranquility — the Heuriger (wine taverns) and coffeehouses — were still the same as ever. To some extent this is the case. The taverns located in the picturesque vineyards and suburban cellar lanes still seat guests on rustic benches, and serve up a good honest glass of wine from their own vines and something substantial to eat for little money. At coffeehouses, guests are still politely addressed with academic titles and can delight in a vast selection of coffees whilst savoring their cakes and strudel in the timeless atmosphere of these unique places.

Yet time has not stood as still as it would seem. An increasing number of wine taverns not only set great store by top class vintages, but also pay attention to glass culture. This is accompanied by individual and, in some cases, lighter fare at the buffet. Weingut Wieninger‘s Fritz Wieninger is one of Vienna’s outstanding winegrowers. His top vintages are sought-after all over the world. He has even gone as far as to hire a top chef for his tavern. And Hans Peter Göbel has not only given his Heuriger a contemporary look, but also holds tasting events and specialty weeks.

At the coffeehouse, of course, such changes have to be approached with extreme caution. Preservation of tradition and association with the “good old days” are as vital as excellent coffee, immaculate service and divine cakes and pastries. Yet new ideas embracing time-honored tradition are also emerging. At Café Schottenring and Café Restaurant Residenz at Schönbrunn you can get to grips with the art of making, filling and rolling wafer-thin flaky pastry in an apple strudel seminar, or learn all about the espresso et al at a coffee seminar. What’s more, a Viennese coffee training institute even offers a “coffee sommelier” course.

Given all these treats old and new in Vienna, you could be forgiven for thinking there were nothing to grumble (or raunzen as the Viennese would say) about. Yet you would be mistaken. After all, sooner or later your stomach will be full, but still so many places left to try out: A true reason for grumbling!

Book car hire in Vienna.

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1. Vienna – “Something Old & Something New”
2. Shopping in Vienna
3. Advent in Vienna

As a woman who likes to wine and dine as frequently as possible, but has had to tighten her purse strings during the recession, I was delighted when for my birthday last year I received a year’s membership to the Gourmet Society. Having recently renewed my membership for a further year, I thought it would only be fair to share the benefits of this great offering with you.

The Gourmet Society is the biggest dining promotion in the UK, with over 100,000 members eating out each week for less, at over 3,000 restaurants nationwide. In addition, since first becoming a member, the club has gone from strength to strength, with support from leading restaurateurs’ and many of the leading restaurant chains.

The beauty of the membership is the broad spectrum of the restaurants you can chose from and the substantial discounts that are available. The discounts vary by establishment but include buy a course, get one free, buy two course, get two free and up to 25% off your total bill. 

Your Gourmet Society card gives you access to discounted dining at everything form your local, independent bistro to numerous Michelin starred establishments around the UK. This is in addition to the special offers at some the UK’s top high street restaurant chains which can be found in all major towns and cities nationwide. With over 3,000 restaurants to choose from, wherever you go in the UK, you are sure to find the perfect place to dine, within your Gourmet Society Guide.

In addition, to discounts at some of the UK’s finest restaurants, the Gourmet Society offers member’s access to exclusive discounts at events, hotels and shops in the UK.

Membership can be purchased online at www.gourmetsociety.co.uk or by calling 0800 043 1978. The more memberships you buy, the cheaper each membership becomes, making a Gourmet Society card an ideal Christmas or Birthday present for those family and friends who have a love for fine dining and value for money.

I have already recommended numerous family and friends to the Gourmet Society, all of which have been astounded at the great value for money and extensive choice of dining wherever they live or travel to in the UK.

Personally, it has been great to try restaurants that would have previously been out of my budget and to know that I no longer have to scour voucher sites for hours on end, to be able to get great deals at some of my favorite restaurants all year round.

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