The study takes into consideration a number of factors affecting the living standards across 221 cities using New York as the base city. Mercer revealed that the financial crisis had the biggest impact during 2009 and 2010 on cities that were reviewed in the study.

Vancouver in Canada and Auckland in New Zealand were joint forth with Calgary in Canada taking the no.1 spot in the eco-cities chart.

London was the only UK city making an appearance in the top 50 taking 39th position. Aberdeen was the highest ranked UK city in the eco-city chart ranked in 19th position.

A full list of the top 50 cities in each category can be found on the Mercer website.

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Palffy Club in Vienna

The latest news from the Vienna tourist board…

A new location in an old palace — the Palffy Club bursts onto the Vienna club scene.
Palais Palffy enjoys a prime location in the heart of the old town opposite the Hofburg, next door to the stables of the Spanish riding school. The building dates back to the fourteenth century, but has been remodelled and extended various times since. It also has a strong musical tradition. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart performed here as a child and is reputed to have premiered his The Marriage of Figaro to a private audience at the palace.

The new 550m2 Palffy Club now occupies two floors of this illustrious old building. The first-floor lounge bar is stocked with 700 spirits, and upstairs is the dance floor. On Thursdays Vienna’s high flyers get together for the Network Club. On Fridays it’s time for House and dancefloor, and the Jetlag Club comes to town on Saturdays. This fine new party location has luxurious feel. A 12 meter chandelier with 80,000 Swarovski crystals forms the centerpiece of the interior decorations, and the bar is set with thousands of miniature glittering gemstones.

Similar opulence awaits at Palais Eschenbach. This classic palace was built in 1872. Today its elegant rooms provide the setting for concerts, parties and club nights. Palais Auersperg — built in 1708 by leading Baroque architects Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt and Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach — has opened its doors for countless wild parties and celebrations in recent years.

Palffy Club
Josefsplatz 6, 1st district,
www.palffyclub.at
Thursdays from 6pm, Fridays, Saturdays and nights before public holidays 10pm

Palais Eschenbach
Eschenbachgasse 11, 1st district,
www.palais-eschenbach.at

Palais Auersperg
Auerspergstrasse 1, 1st district,
www.auersperg.com

If you’re heading to Vienna, why not rent a car in Vienna from Sixt.

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For visitors to the city it is an attraction, for locals a second home, and for artists and literati an institution: the Viennese Coffeehouse.

Coffeehouses in Vienna are much more than just places to drink coffee – they are a way of life. The city boasts in excess of 800 of them – in addition to the numerous café bars, café restaurants and pizza cafés throughout the city. Around 50 are classic coffeehouses, where the waiters are still dressed in black, and the décor is as unpretentious as it was in the ‘good old days’: wooden floors, marble-topped tables, and seating that is simple and plush.

Every ‘scene’ in Vienna has its own café: workers at the ministries have Café Ministerium on Georg-Coch-Platz, art students Prückel at Stubenring, and politicians Landtmann at Dr. Karl-Lueger-Ring. The coffeehouse is a place for philosophizing, meditating, idling, reading the newspaper, gossiping, canoodling, playing billiards or chess, discussing everything under the sun with strangers – and, of course, enjoying coffee and cakes.

The great novelist Heimito von Doderer wrote in 1960 that Vienna was “a city of Roman origin aspiring to the Mediterranean”. To him this explained why the atmosphere in a Viennese café was one of “meditative quiet and idle passing of time” familiar to anyone who had visited an Oriental or Turkish café.

Tradition and Turmoil

However, such an ambience is less prevalent in the city’s most popular coffeehouses. Griensteidl on Michaelerplatz, is a former meeting place for literati, which was reopened in new premises on the original site in 1990. It lies directly on the Hofburg-Kohlmarkt-Graben-Stephansplatz tourist route, making it a good place for visitors to Vienna to rest their feet and enjoy a hot pick-me-up. Café Central in Herrengasse, whose large columned hall was painstakingly restored in 1986, is just 100 meters further down the street as you head towards the university and Votive Church.

Both establishments can look back on a long tradition. The atmosphere in the “old” Griensteidl was legendary. For seven intensive years, from 1890 to 1897, the café in the former Palais Dietrichstein was Vienna’s most famous cultural “institution”. There was hardly a writer, actor, critic, architect or musician of note in this fin-de-siècle world who did not frequent it.

The main pioneers of Viennese Modernism were present practically in their entirety: Hermann Bahr, Arthur Schnitzler, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Karl Kraus, Hugo Wolf, Fritz Kreisler, Arnold Schoenberg and many more. A “compact system of energy circles,” wrote Edward Timms, from which an “astonishingly creative energy” emanated.

In 1897, Griensteidl was demolished along with the bastions and many other buildings on Graben and Neuer Markt. With a nostalgic and an ironic regard, Karl Kraus lamented in Die demolierte Literatur: “Our literature has entered into a period of homelessness; the thread of literary production has been cruelly cut.” Fortunately, other cafés continued to exist. The regulars at the Griensteidl simply moved to Café Central.

Stammtisch Code of Behavior

Today the poet Peter Altenberg – or at least a papier-mâché version of him – still presides over Café Central in Herrengasse. In the first third of the 20th century this was the eccentric bohemian’s postal address and where he had his Stammtisch (“regulars’ table”), meeting up with Adolf Loos, one of the most important Modernist architects, his wife Lina, the actor and essayist Egon Friedell and the writer Alfred Polgar.

Altenberg, whose short prose pieces and sketches, once described by Egon Friedell as “thousand section magazines full of small and miniscule observations”, even established rules – albeit not to be taken too seriously – for his regular Stammtisch. For example: “It is forbidden to cut one’s nails at the table, even with one’s own old-style personal scissors, but particularly with the new-fangled nail cutters, as the cuttings could land in a beer glass and would be very difficult to extricate.” It is at this table that the 20-year-old Caroline Obertimpfler (pen name Lina Loos) is said to have spontaneously accepted the proposal of marriage by Adolf Loos, twelve years her senior. Her later celebrated Buch ohne Titel, contained articles, sketches and recollections holding a mirror up to this fin-de-siècle generation.

Today the atmosphere in Café Central is businesslike, bourgeois and cultivated. During the week it is frequented by staff of nearby banks. At weekends, tourists, genteel old ladies and retired civil servants join the papier-mâché poet and listen reverently to the piano player.

A Naked Man and Self-Delusion

Another traditional café in the 1st district is Café Hawelka. Its popularity and arty image go back to the post-war years when Hans Weigel, himself a writer, promoter of talent and cultural institution, chose the tiny coffeehouse run by Leopold and Josefine Hawelka as his home from home. The reason was simple: it was open until midnight.

Weigel’s example was soon followed by other writers, artists and intellectuals – “on the snowball or avalanche principle” (Weigel). In the 1950s and 1960s Café Hawelka became the home of the anti-bourgeois oppositional artist movement. It was a public meeting place for individualists, an ideas exchange and an island of unconventionality. It is little wonder that the naked man in Georg Danzer’s song Jö, schau doesn’t raise an eyebrow in Café Hawelka.

Many literati used to meet regularly at Hawelka and the Vienna group – H.C. Artmann, Konrad Bayer, Gerhard Rühm and Oswald Wiener – used to spend long nights there. Artmann said of the small, smoke-filled establishment in Dorotheergasse that without it “much would have remained undone, unsaid or even unthought of.” The great novelist Heimito von Doderer also felt at home there.

André Heller visited the café for the first time at the age of 14 and, as he wrote in 1982, immediately molded his behavior. He fantasized and made up stories like there was no tomorrow – from writing to travel – and by all accounts with great credibility. “Later I often had the feeling,” said Heller, “that these first minutes of my acquaintanceship with the Buchteln paradise already had all the main ingredients for future Hawelka nights: story telling, self-deceit, the urge to reminisce, criticize and stylize.

The ground floor of Dorotheergasse 6 was filled with people who did not keep their own promises. […] Yet the gracious waiter took his guests to be what they vainly aspired to be. Fantasy and reality were all one for him – and he was just as incapable of imagining his guests as inhabitants of a real, fug-free world as they were of imaging him without his jacket and grease-specked bowtie.”

Hawelka is still fuggy today, but its clientele has changed. Although the tables are now filled with students and tourists, the atmosphere between the thick layers of posters on the walls, the telephone booth and worn-out plush benches remains unique. And the hot fresh Buchteln (jam-filled yeast cakes) at 10 pm are not to be missed.

Home from Home

After the great lull in the coffeehouse tradition in the 1960s and 1970s, many cafés were restored to their former glory in the subsequent 20 years, including such well known establishments as Schwarzenberg at Kärntner Ring and Landtmann. Other old Viennese cafés reinvented themselves as cool post-modern espresso bars, much to the delight of the young and fashionable.

Coffeehouses might have changed, but the reasons for visiting them have remained the same. As Stefan Zweig wrote in Die Welt von gestern, the café is still “a democratic club where a cup of coffee can be had cheaply and where for this pittance every guest can sit, discuss, write, play cards, receive mail and, above all, consume an unlimited number of newspapers and magazines for hours on end.” The café becomes a home from home where you are alone, and yet in company.

In Wittgensteins Neffe Thomas Bernhard described his love for the coffeehouse in his own incomparable fashion: “I have always hated the typical Viennese café – as it is known throughout the world – because everything in it is against me. On the other hand, for decades I felt completely at home in Bräunerhof, which was always strictly against me (like Hawelka), and in Café Museum and other Viennese coffeehouses.”

 
Where the Best Coffee is served

Bellaria
Art Nouveau Café
Bellariastrasse 6, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-523 53 20, www.cafebellaria.at
Mon – Fri 7:30 a.m. – midnight, Sat 10 a.m. – midnight

Bräunerhof
Stylish café – Thomas Bernhard’s favorite
Stallburggasse 2, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-512 38 93, www.braeunerhof.at
Mon – Fri 8 a.m. – 9 p.m., Sat 8 a.m. – 7 p.m., Sun & public hols 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.

Central
Tradition revived
Herrengasse 14, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-533 37 63–61, www.palaisevents.at
7:30 a.m. – 10 p.m. daily

Diglas
Perfect example of a good, old coffeehouse
Wollzeile 10, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-512 57 65, www.diglas.at
8 a.m. – 10.30 p.m. daily

Dommayer
Coffeehouse elegance
Auhofstrasse 2, 1130 Wien, tel. +43-1-877 54 65, www.dommayer.at
7 a.m. – 10 p.m. daily

Griensteidl
Illustrious past in a great location
Michaelerplatz 2, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-535 26 92
8 a.m. – 11:30 p.m. daily

Hawelka
Smokey artists’ haunt, congenially shabby. Buchteln cakes!
Dorotheergasse 6, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-512 82 30, www.hawelka.at
Mon, Wed – Sat 8 a.m. – 2 a.m., Sun & public hols 10 a.m. – 2 a.m.

Hofburg
Large café in an imperial setting
Hofburg/Innerer Burghof, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-241 00-420, www.cafe-wien.at
10 a.m. – 6 p.m. daily

Hummel
Spacious meeting place, practical and original
Josefstädter Strasse 66, 1080 Wien,  tel. +43-1-405 53 14, www.cafehummel.at
Mon – Sat 7 a.m. – midnight, Sun & public hols 8 a.m. – midnight

Landtmann
Next door to the Burgtheater, where politicians and artists meet
Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Ring 4, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-24 100-111, www.cafe-wien.at
7:30 a.m. – midnight daily

Mozart
Shining splendor
Albertinaplatz 2, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-24 100-211, www.cafe-wien.at
8 a.m. – midnight daily

Museum
Traditional café – fitted out by Adolf Loos in 1899
Friedrichstrasse 6, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-586 52 02, www.cafe-museum.at
Mon – Sat 8 a.m. – midnight, Sun & public hols 10 a.m. – midnight

Prückel
Ringstrasse café with a 1950s interior
Stubenring 24, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-512 43 39, www.prueckel.at
8:30 a.m. – 10 p.m. daily

Residenz
In Schönbrunn Palace. Apple Strudel Show at the Court Bakery
Schönbrunn Palace/Kavalierstrakt, 1130 Wien, tel. +43-1-241 00-310, www.cafe-wien.at
9 a.m. – 8 p.m. daily

 
Ritter
Oasis of calm in Mariahilfer Strasse
Mariahilfer Strasse 73, 1060 Wien, tel. +43-1-587 82 38
7:30 a.m. – 11.30 p.m.

Sacher
Elegance par excellence
Philharmonikerstrasse 4, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-514 56-661, www.sacher.com
8 a.m. – 11:30 p.m. daily

Schottenring
Contemporary and classic
Schottenring 19, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-315 33 43, www.cafe-schottenring.at
Mon – Fri 6:30 a.m. – 11 p.m., Sat, Sun & public hols 8 a.m. – 9 p.m.

Schwarzenberg
Vienna’s first Ringstrasse café
Kärntner Ring 17, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-512 89 98-13, www.cafe-schwarzenberg.at
Sun – Fri 7 a.m. – midnight, Sat 9 a.m. – midnight

Sperl
Popular and award-winning – coffeehouse romanticism at its finest
Gumpendorfer Strasse 11, 1060 Wien, tel. +43-1-586 41 58, www.cafesperl.at
Mon – Sat 7 a.m. – 11 p.m., Sun & public hols 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.; closed Sun in July & Aug

Tirolerhof
Urban reservation
Führichgasse 8, 1010 Wien, tel. +43-1-512 78 33
Mon – Sat 7 a.m. – 10 p.m., Sun & public hols 9:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Weimar bei der Volksoper
A meeting point for audiences and artists at the Volksoper
Währinger Strasse 68, 1090 Wien, tel. +43-1-317 12 06, www.cafeweimar.at
Mon – Sat 7:30 a.m. – midnight, Sun & public hols 9 a.m. – midnight

 
Viennese Coffee Specialties

Mokka
(Small) strong black coffee without milk

Melange
Mokka “lengthened” by a shot of hot water, with steamed milk and frothed milk

Cappuccino
Strong coffee with plenty of milk, topped with frothed milk and chocolate flakes

Kapuziner
(Large) black coffee with a shot of milk

Franziskaner
(Light) Melange topped with whipped cream

Einspänner
Mokka in a glass with whipped cream

Fiaker
Mokka in a glass with a shot of rum

Türkischer
Turkish-style, unfiltered mocha

Content and images supplied by the Vienna Tourist Board.

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Vienna is not only the capital of Austria, but also one of its nine federal states. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, considered the center of the city by its inhabitants, is located 16º 22’ 27’’ east of Greenwich at 48º 12’ 32’’ northern latitude, and 171 meters above sea level. The city covers 415 square kilometers and is divided into 23 districts. With woods, grassland, parks and gardens accounting for almost half its area, Vienna is the city in Europe with the highest ratio of green space.

“Urban green” such as Stadtpark (with the most frequently photographed motif in the city, the golden Johann Strauss monument) is joined by the woods and grassland of Prater, the extensive Schönbrunn Palace Gardens, sections of the Vienna Woods, vineyards, farmland and the wetlands of the legendary Danube River. During the summer temperatures rarely rise above 30º C, during the winter hardly ever fall below -5º C.

From Roman Camp to Capital of the Republic

Vienna’s history goes back to the first century A.D., when the Romans founded the military camp Vindobona. The city of Vienna was first mentioned in documents in 1137. Around 1155 the Dukes of Babenberg chose it as their residence, and from 1282 it was where the Habsburgs reigned from for more than six centuries. Today’s cityscape is dominated by the Baroque, which for the main part originated during the reign of Empress Maria Theresia. Emperor Franz Joseph I also put his imprint on the city when he leveled the city walls in 1857 and oversaw the completion of the splendid Ring Boulevard. He died during World War I after reigning for 68 years. In 1918 Vienna became the capital of the Republic of Austria.

In 1945, it was again proclaimed capital of the Republic of Austria. In 1967, the city became one of three United Nations headquarters alongside New York and Geneva, and in 1995 joined the ranks as a capital city of the European Union.

Imperial Romance and World-Class Art

Natural History Museum of Vienna

Vienna owes its universal appeal to the way it excitingly combines imperial nostalgia with a highly creative cultural scene, responsibly cultivating a precious heritage and charming traditions whilst taking on board the latest trends. Architecture dating from imperial times has left an indelible mark on the city. Magnificent edifices, predominantly in baroque, historicism (“Ringstrasse”) and art nouveau styles, and the city’s grand scale cause you to forget that this is the capital of the small Republic of Austria with only eight million inhabitants. In Vienna, you re-live the romance of a long-lost empire.

Yet it is not only the city’s imperial architecture that renders it a city of beauty. Vienna also boasts world-renowned museums, art collections and works of art. The Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts) houses the world’s largest collection of paintings by Bruegel, while numerous works by Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele are exhibited at the Belvedere and the Leopold Museum in the MuseumsQuartier.

MuseumsQuartier, a cultural attraction of international standing located in the city center close to famous museums, opened in 2001. Covering 45,000 square meters it is an architecturally fascinating combination of baroque (the former Imperial Stables) and future-oriented design by architects Ortner&Ortner. With 60,000 square meters of usable floor space on eight different levels, it is one of the ten largest cultural complexes in the world, offering a unique mix of uses.

Key attractions include: the Leopold Museum (mentioned above) with the world’s largest collection of Schieles and works by renowned modern Austrian artists such as Klimt, Kokoschka and Gerst; the Museum of Modern Art, Architkturzentrum Wien, and Kunsthalle Wien. Two festival halls (seating 1,000 and 300) are used for high-profile events such as the Vienna Festival, the International Dance Weeks and even for pop concerts. A children’s museum, a children’s theater, an information center for youngsters, and a number of attractive restaurants, cafés and shops complement the rich array of cultural offerings.

The Albertina houses the world’s largest collection of graphic art, spanning 60,000 drawings, some million prints and an extensive collection of photographic and architectural material. After several years of renovation, it reopened as a modern gallery in 2003, and now you can enjoy good food as well as art in the Albertina’s Do & Co restaurant.

Yet another top-caliber attraction and a place to experience the baroque is the Liechtenstein Museum. After a period of “exile” brought on by the Second World War, the outstanding collection of the Princes of Liechtenstein returned to Vienna in March 2004. The Liechtenstein Museum in the restored, baroque Garden Palace of the Princely Family boasts over 200 paintings, sculptures and pieces of decorative art.

One of the world’s most extensive collections of Rubens is joined by prominent works by van Dyck, Lucas Cranach and Raphael, as well as compositions by Rembrandt, van Ruysdael and Hamilton. The Palace’s magnificent library – previously closed to the public – may be visited, and a further highlight is the unique frescoes by Johann Michael Rottmayr.

On April 24, 2004 – 150 years after the marriage of Empress Elisabeth (1837–1898) and Emperor Franz Joseph I – the Sisi Museum opened at Hofburg palace. The exhibits on show include a number of Elisabeth’s personal belongings including a replica of the dress she wore on the eve of her wedding, her morning coat, and the monarch’s parasol, fans and gloves. A walk-in reconstruction of the luxury state railway carriage used by the travel-mad empress can also be viewed.

City of Music – Traditional & Modern

The Burgtheater

In addition, ambitious exhibitions are frequently mounted. All this ensures an extraordinarily rich cultural program throughout the year, making Vienna one of Europe’s leading cultural centers.

Vienna, as a city of music, enjoys a paramount reputation around the world. No other city has been home to so many composers of international renown. Some, such as Schubert, Strauss, Schoenberg and Berg were born there, others, such as Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Brahms and Mahler chose to live there.

It boasts one of the world’s finest orchestras – the Vienna Philharmonic – as well as the Vienna Symphony Orchestra and several other orchestras and ensembles of note. The Vienna State Opera is one of the world’s leading opera houses, and is joined by three more in the city (Theater an der Wien, Volksoper, Kammeroper).

The Vienna Boys’ Choir enchants music lovers the world over. In addition to classical music, Vienna has also made its mark as a city of musicals, and recent successes in electronic music show that the avant-garde is also taken seriously in Vienna. A very special way to enjoy music is presented at the House of Music – a unique high-tech voyage of discovery into the phenomenon of music – where sounds become visible, organ pipes may be walked on and visitors can become virtual conductors and composers, all on an area of 2,000 square meters. Yet a further attraction is the Mozarthaus Vienna which was opened on January 27, 2006 – Mozart’s 250th birthday – in his former residence at Domgasse.

Lifestyle: Imperial Nostalgia & Contemporary Trends

The juxtaposition of what is traditional – coffeehouses and wine taverns with typical Viennese congeniality – and what is modern – events such as the Life Ball and the Festival of Electronic Music – conveys a lifestyle that appeals to the modern tourist. A choice between relaxation and serenity, or action and stimulation, that can be made depending on your mood.

Vienna at Night

During the summer, Viennese and tourists alike throng not only to Prater park with the famous Giant Ferris Wheel, but also to the Copa Cagrana on Danube Island – which boasts Europe’s largest open-air party in June. Beach atmosphere can also be soaked up at the numerous riverside bathing areas along the Danube Canal where summer sun is accompanied by cool drinks. And the wine tavern districts on the gentle hillsides of the Vienna Woods extend an invitation to seriously “study” Vienna and its wines.

Tourist Information & the Vienna Card

The Vienna Tourist Board is happy to be of service to Vienna’s many visitors. City maps with a list of museums, hotel guides, a monthly calendar of events, gastronomy tips and other information in many languages are all available free of charge by calling +43 (0)1 24 555 or mailing info@vienna.info. Hotel enquiries and reservations are also taken. The website www.vienna.info features an extensive database of events and many useful hints for your stay in Vienna.

The Vienna Card costing EUR 18.50 is a 72-hour rover ticket granting not only unlimited travel on Vienna’s public transportation system, but also a number of discounts. It is available at Vienna hotels, the Tourist Information Office, travel agencies and public transportation sales counters. Holders of the Vienna Card can take advantage of over 210 price reductions and special deals, from discounted museum admission to shopping offers.

The central Tourist Information Office of the Vienna Tourist Board is located just behind the Vienna State Opera at Albertinaplatz (corner of Maysedergasse, 1010 Wien). In addition to general information and assistance in obtaining hotel accommodations, this information center also arranges entrance tickets, guided city tours and provides bureau de change services, daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

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The Parisians may be the more experienced lovers, the Londoners better dressed, and the Romans famed for their dolce vita. Yet hardly any other city in the world boasts a day-to-day way of life where food and drink play such an important role as in Vienna.

Viennese social contacts have always been nurtured in culinary contexts, to greater or lesser extents. Even Viennese politics has been a springboard for gastronomical traditions. Just think of the many famous dishes that are now regarded as “Viennese cuisine”, but actually originated in allied and enemy states of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The legendary Vienna Schnitzel is from Milan, the goulash from Hungary, the apple strudel from Turkey and the divine cakes and pastries from Bohemia. Indeed, it has to be said that even Emperor Franz Josef’s favorite Tafelspitz — the tender epitome of boiled beef refinement in Vienna — has its roots in Italy.

There are typical Viennese dishes to suit every pocket and one can choose from an absolutely enormous spectrum of eateries. They start from street-side booths dishing up fast and inexpensive snacks, including the favorite hot sausage — be it the classic wiener, the coarser Burenwurst, the relatively spicy Käsekrainer, or Leberkäse, a kind of spam. Then there are the Viennese answers to international fast food chains, the schnitzel outlets, and finally the highly acclaimed gourmet establishments. ”Steirereck” has for years experimented with traditional recipes, raising what were formerly “pauper’s dishes” to the higher echelons of world cookery.

Yet the nerve center of classical Viennese cuisine is the Gasthaus — the good, homely inn. These places have made a remarkable comeback in recent years, for instance “Eckel” in the 19th district, the wonderful belle époque “Zum schwarzen Kameel”, “Zum schwarzen Adler”, “Huth” and the original, pioneering “Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer”. Viennese hospitality and tradition are celebrated, accompanied by wide-ranging contemporary cuisine with seasonal ingredients, local products and sophisticated wine culture.

Nothing beats a Good Old Pub

Yet Vienna’s “staple” establishment is the Beisl, the small corner pub where you will typically be offered a “Seidl” (0.3l beer) or “Achterl” (0.125l wine) to drink, and goulash or Beuscherl (offal casserole) to eat.

The term Beisl originates from Yiddish and translates approximately as “small house”. Although they are a kind of democratic institution and are universally loved, most of them have disappeared over the last 20 years. Those that have remained have taken on almost cult status, with the likes of “Bauer Gustl”, “Herkner” and “Zum Scherer” now counting among the city’s most frequented places.

Vienna’s schnitzel mecca, “Figlmüller” boasts the largest and thinnest schnitzels in town as well as three locations to choose from. You simply cannot get enough of these schnitzels, and regulars are joined by celebrities and business executives savoring the traditional fare. At “GmoaKeller” behind the Konzerthaus you are spoiled for choice with a virtually endless menu of original dishes and many old-Viennese specialties. And those preferring to escape the urban jungle a little can head to Vienna’s green suburbs and shady inn gardens, for instance to “Grünspan” (a former vintner’s house in Ottakring),or “Prilisauer” in Penzing, a typical old-Viennese inn that nurtures tradition and dishes up outstanding cuisine. There is also ”Pfarrwirt“ in Heiligenstadt which was leased by businessman Hans Schmid as part of the acquisition of the neighboring “Mayer am Pfarrplatz”. This medieval building complete with delightful baroque hall is now a contemporary restaurant.

Many newer Beisls have also established themselves in the last decade, taken over by young, ambitious chefs on the lookout for modern, sophisticated Viennese cuisine, who nevertheless remain loyal to their roots. Good examples include the tremendously popular “Grünauer”, the classic “Schnattl” close to the Theater in der Josefstadt, the unique “Meixner“ in the 10th district and “Weibel’s Wirtshaus” where owner Hans Weibel also boasts a virtually inexhaustible wine list.

Strength in Numbers: the Grätzels

In recent years, the bar and restaurant scene has witnessed a boom, and just like in other cities a phenomenon has evolved which the Viennese refer to as Grätzels — sub-districts or groupings of establishments. On account of their composition and flair, they have attracted patrons with individual tastes.

The legendary “Bermuda Triangle” — where trendy bars and pubs literally shot up in the historic district between the synagogue and the ancient St. Rupert’s Church in the early 1980s — was a pioneer of this genre in Vienna, as were the uncountable pubs and cafés in the narrow Bäckerstrasse. The picturesque Biedermeier ensembles in Spittelberg (7th district) have also witnessed a new lease of life, the dynamism of which has spread to the neighboring streets. The same has happened with the “Schlossquadrat” at Margaretenplatz, at establishments around the university and right behind on the campus of the old AKH (general hospital) and in particular at the Naschmarkt. This market located at Wienzeile, once regarded as conservative, has in the last few years become the ultimate rendezvous for Vienna’s young, hedonistic population of international taste — particularly on Saturdays.

Morning is the time to browse and taste, while the surrounding bars and restaurants remain busy into the night hours. The Naschmarkt and the neighboring Freihausviertel are among Vienna’s most lively districts. This development has also caught on around other beautiful Viennese markets such as the Brunnenmarkt, Karmelitermarkt and Rochusmarkt. Although smaller in area, they are equally vibrant and enjoyable.

Ethno: the International Flavor of Vienna

The unprecedented boom in ethnic cuisine also reflects international trends. Taste-buds from all over the globe are catered for, from Mongolian and African to Tibetan. What has really taken the Viennese by storm, however, is Mediterranean cuisine and Asian diversity.

First class gastronomy can be found at “Fabios” where South Tyrol’s local hero Fabio Giacobello creates Mediterranean specialties in a stylish mahogany setting, seriously appealing to guests’ tastes. At the “Novelli”, situated at the heart of the peaceful antiques district between Hofburg and Kärntnerstrasse, Konstantin Filippou cooks the contemporary creative cuisine which is currently causing something of a sensation in Spain, combined with subtly modernised Italian classics. The “Da Moritz”, run by the Huth family, interprets (among other dishes) pizza in a slightly newer and more creative way, and is one of Vienna’s very best Trattorias.

Contemporary Chinese restaurants “Goldene Zeiten“ and “ON“ are places where creative Shanghai cuisine and Austrian wine come together. “Yohm” boasts an exciting fusion of Asian culinary tradition in a cool design setting, while “Nirvana” adds a bit of Indian to the blend, and in the “Indochine 21” restaurant just opposite the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK) you travel foodwise to Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. And, in the tiny designer “Kim kocht” restaurant, the essence of Asian spices is explored in a frequently experimental and fascinating way.

More than just a Bite to Eat: Culture meets Cuisine

Museums, theaters and other cultural venues have witnessed a surge in culinary innovation, resulting in a varied and opulent restaurant scene.

In the “Österreicher im MAK”, top chef Helmut Österreicher (holder of the “4 Chef’s Hats” award), Museum Director Peter Noever and a group of investors are putting into practice a completely new restaurant concept. They are setting the standard with a congenial new chain of restaurants which offers a successful combination of traditional and modern Viennese cuisine.

One of the city’s popular culinary haunts, “Vestibül”, occupies the former imperial entrance wing of the Burgtheater. Mussel dinners are the order of the day once a week at the venerable Museum of Natural History (except in summer) and in spring you can dine on asparagus there. In the basement of the old stock exchange building you can breakfast and take in the flair of Vienna’s finest florist at “Hansen”, and even the Gloriette in the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace has been transformed into a designer café.

Vienna’s up-and-coming creative artists meet up at the “Kunsthalle” café. A motley mix of promenading locals and tourists can be found in the century-old Palmenhaus (Palmery) of the Burggarten, where a spacious brasserie has been accommodated beneath the steel and glass structure following extensive renovation work. And just everybody who wants to be somebody meets in one of the designer, ethno or young gastronomy restaurants at MuseumsQuartier or at “Aux Gazelles” on the corner of Rahlgasse/Mariahilfer Strasse which combines Moroccan culinary lifestyle with an adjoining Hammam steam bath.

Ringing the Changes: Wine Taverns & Coffeehouses

The surge in innovation in Vienna’s pubs and restaurants that now spoils you for culinary choice would maybe lead you to believe that at least the traditional oases of tranquility — the Heuriger (wine taverns) and coffeehouses — were still the same as ever. To some extent this is the case. The taverns located in the picturesque vineyards and suburban cellar lanes still seat guests on rustic benches, and serve up a good honest glass of wine from their own vines and something substantial to eat for little money. At coffeehouses, guests are still politely addressed with academic titles and can delight in a vast selection of coffees whilst savoring their cakes and strudel in the timeless atmosphere of these unique places.

Yet time has not stood as still as it would seem. An increasing number of wine taverns not only set great store by top class vintages, but also pay attention to glass culture. This is accompanied by individual and, in some cases, lighter fare at the buffet. Weingut Wieninger‘s Fritz Wieninger is one of Vienna’s outstanding winegrowers. His top vintages are sought-after all over the world. He has even gone as far as to hire a top chef for his tavern. And Hans Peter Göbel has not only given his Heuriger a contemporary look, but also holds tasting events and specialty weeks.

At the coffeehouse, of course, such changes have to be approached with extreme caution. Preservation of tradition and association with the “good old days” are as vital as excellent coffee, immaculate service and divine cakes and pastries. Yet new ideas embracing time-honored tradition are also emerging. At Café Schottenring and Café Restaurant Residenz at Schönbrunn you can get to grips with the art of making, filling and rolling wafer-thin flaky pastry in an apple strudel seminar, or learn all about the espresso et al at a coffee seminar. What’s more, a Viennese coffee training institute even offers a “coffee sommelier” course.

Given all these treats old and new in Vienna, you could be forgiven for thinking there were nothing to grumble (or raunzen as the Viennese would say) about. Yet you would be mistaken. After all, sooner or later your stomach will be full, but still so many places left to try out: A true reason for grumbling!

Book car hire in Vienna.

Related posts:

1. Vienna – “Something Old & Something New”
2. Shopping in Vienna
3. Advent in Vienna

An original gift for a friend back home or a pretty keepsake for yourself – shopping is a vacation treat in Vienna. This guide presents an overview of the city’s best shopping destinations, along with a number of insider tips.

Luxury and tradition in the city center

Shopping in Vienna: Luxury Brands

The range of shopping options is particularly rich in Vienna’s historic first district. The pedestrianized streets of Kohlmarkt, Graben and Kärtner Strasse form the so-called Golden U, a Viennese shopping Mecca. In recent years Kohlmarkt has developed into a center for luxury boutiques. It is lined with flagship stores of international labels such as Chanel, Cartier and Louis Vuitton. And at the heart of the Golden U, former Imperial court confectioner, Demel provides a reminder of Vienna of yore with its sweet treats and eye-catching window displays that showcase the high art of confectionary. A few buildings down is the equally illustrious Meinl am Graben, with its mouth-watering delicacies for gourmets and bon viveurs. On Graben, Altmann & Kühne awaits with its fine pralines, lovingly packaged in little boxes. Meanwhile Schwäbische Jungfrau is the place for exclusive tableware, bed linens, dressing gowns, and down comforters.

Zur Schwäbischen Jungfrau is a former purveyor to the Imperial Court. The title Purveyor to the Imperial Court dates back to 1782 and was a distinction bestowed upon merchants deemed worthy of supplying the Imperial Court thanks to the exceptional quality of their products. Over the years, the distinction became a highly prestigious honorary title and a truly first class seal of quality used by over 500 companies. While the Imperial Court disappeared long ago, the German-language title k.u.k. Hoflieferant endures as an assurance of quality to this day. Examples include textile and home furnishings business, Backhausen with its Wiener Werkstätte textiles; noble glass and chandelier maker Lobmeyr; jewelers Köchert, Rozet & Fischmeister and Anton Heldwein; elegant gentlemen’s outfitters, Knize & Comp; former court perfumery, J. B. Filz; traditional shoe maker, Rudolf Scheer & Söhne; and the Hotel Sacher home to the original Sachertorte – all of which are located in the First District.

Traditions must be upheld, as they say. It is therefore no accident that there are so many antique shops in the First District. The side streets around Graben, (incl. Dorotheergasse, Stallburggasse, and Bräunerstrasse and Spiegelgasse) are brimming with boutiques selling Baroque armories, renaissance chests, fine carpets, magnificent timepieces, paintings, porcelain and antique jewelry. The antique section of Musikhaus Doblinger still contains a number of original sheets of Viennese classical music. The Dorotheum auction house – one of the world’s largest – is a magnet for lovers of attractive antiques.

The Old Town’s attractions go well beyond the traditional. Anyone looking for international designer fashion will find what they are looking for at Firis, Chegini, 2006FEB01, Kasha and Sternlite, where gems from Dries van Noten, Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Miu Miu and other designers line the racks. A number of Viennese designers have shops in the First District as well. Highlights include couturiers Michel Mayer and Schella Kann, Mühlbauer with hats from its own portfolio and international fashion labels, accessory specialist Robert Horn, and luxury shoemaker Ludwig Reiter.

Kärntner Strasse is home to one of just a handful of department stores in the city. Split across several floors, Steffl’s offers fashion, fragrances and accessories. The nearby Ringstrassen Galerien is a spacious, indoor shopper’s paradise.

Addresses

• 2006FEB01, Plankengasse 3, www.2006feb01.com
• Altmann & Kühne, Graben 30, www.altmann-kuehne.at
• Backhausen, Schwarzenbergstrasse 10, 1010 Vienna, www.backhausen.com
• Cartier, Kohlmarkt 1, 1010 Vienna, www.cartier.com
• Chanel, Kohlmarkt 5, 1010 Vienna, www.chanel.at
• Chegini, Plankengasse 4, Kohlmarkt 4, 1010 Wien
• Demel, Kohlmarkt 14, 1010 Vienna, www.demel.at
• Doblinger, Dorotheergasse 10, 1010 Vienna, www.doblinger.at
• Dorotheum, Dorotheergasse 17, 1010 Vienna, www.dorotheum.at
• J. B. Filz Parfumerie, Graben 13, 1010 Vienna, www.parfumerie-filz.at
• Firis, Bauernmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna, www.firis.at
• Anton Heldwein, Graben 13, 1010 Vienna, www.heldwein.at
• Robert Horn, Bräunerstrasse 7 und Mahlerstrasse 5, www.rhorns.com
• Kasha, Spiegelgasse 3, 1010 Wien
• Kaufhaus Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, www.kaufhaus-steffl.at
• A. E. Köchert, Neuer Markt 15, 1010 Vienna, www.koechert.com
• Knize, Graben 13, 1010 Vienna, www.knize.at
• J. & L. Lobmeyr, Kärntner Strasse 26, 1010 Vienna, www.lobmeyr-zahn.at
• Michel Mayer, Singerstrasse 7, 1010 Vienna, www.michelmayer.at
• Meinl am Graben, Graben 19, 1010 Vienna, www.meinlamgraben.at
• Mühlbauer Headwear, Seilergasse 10, 1010 Vienna,
• Mühlbauer Mode, Seilergasse 5, 1010 Vienna, www.muehlbauer.at
• Ludwig Reiter, Mölkersteig 1, 1010 Vienna, www.ludwig-reiter.com
• Ringstrassen-Galerien, Kärntner Ring 5-7, 1010 Vienna, www.ringstrassen-galerien.at
• Rozet & Fischmeister, Kohlmarkt 11, 1010 Vienna, www.rozet-fischmeister.com
• Sacher, Philharmonikerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, www.sacher.com
• Rudolf Scheer & Söhne, Bräunerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, www.scheer.at
• Schella Kann, Singerstrasse 14, 1010 Vienna, www.schellakann.com
• Schwäbische Jungfrau, Graben 26, www.schwaebische-jungfrau.at
• Sternlite, Bauernmarkt 1-2, 1010 Vienna, www.sterngasse4.com
• Louis Vuitton, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, www.vuitton.com

Mariahilfer Strasse and surroundings – shopping zone and creative center

Shopping in Vienna

Emperor Franz Joseph used to travel along Mariahilfer Strasse as he shuttled between the Hofburg and Schönbrunn Palace. This street connecting the Ringstrasse boulevard and the Gürtel beltway cuts an almost two kilometer path through the 6th and 7th Districts. Today it is Vienna’s number one shopping destination. This large thoroughfare features broad sidewalks and has attracted hundreds of shops and flagship stores carrying international brands, with a particular focus on fashion, footwear, accessories and interior design. There are also countless eateries, including cafés, ice-cream shops, fast food restaurants and pizzerias. Echoes of times gone can be heard at traditional shops like Walter Weiss which stocks virtually everything the heart desires when it comes to grooming – from combs to shaving brushes and mirrors.

A detour from the beaten shopping path is well worth it. A hip shopping zone has sprung up on Gumperndorfer Strasse in the 6th district on the south side of Mariahilfer Strasse. das möbel stocks home furnishings and interior design accessories created by young Viennese and international product designers. At Lichterloh there are furniture classics such as the LC4 chaise longue from Le Corbusier. Nachbarin has a focus on fashion from up-and-coming designers- And at St. Charles Cosmothecary premium natural cosmetics are the order of the day.

In the 7th District on the north side of Mariahilfer Strasse there is an even greater range of products for individualists to choose from. This district is Vienna’s creative hub. The recently gentrified Baroque buildings and narrow streets around the Spittelberg quarter are home to numerous highly-original shops. Lindengasse is a great example. The street primarily concentrates on highly original fashions and fashion-related products with many pieces from up-and-coming Viennese designers. There are attractive leather bags at Ina Kent, children’s fashion at Buntwäsche and Herr und Frau Klein, exquisite underwear in Sandra Gilles’ la petite boutique; original accessories at Lila Pix, and handmade one-of-a-kind jewelry at Werkprunk. Just around the corner on Kirchengasse, highlights include clothing from Viennese green fashion label Göttin des Glücks at Studio, while on Mondscheingasse Park stocks innovative designer labels. In Gutenberggasse Lena Hoschek’s presents a playful take on traditional Austrian dress.

A few streets further down, on Westbahn Strasse, be a good girl wins converts as a hairdresser-cum-boutique and Russian-born Lena Kvadrat’s showroom “ArtPoint” offers young fashion. The MuseumsQuartier fits in perfectly with this creative ambience. Cultural and epicurean delights are accompanied by stores such as the Lomo Shop (f Russian Lomo cameras), Combinat and gegenalltag, with a fine selection by young fashion designers. AtMusiktank customers can simply and inexpensively download the latest music directly onto MP3 players. Select shops in the 7th District are presented at www.7tm.at.

Addresses

• Art Point, Westbahnstrasse 3, 1070 Vienna, www.artpoint.ru
• be a good girl, Westbahnstrasse 5 a, 1070 Vienna, www.beagoodgirl.com
• Buntwäsche, Lindengasse 31-33, 1070 Vienna, www.buntwaesche.at
• Combinat, Museumsplatz 1, MuseumsQuartier, 1010 Vienna, www.combinat.at
• Lena Hoschek, Gutenberggasse 17, 1070 Vienna, www.lenahoschek.at
• Gegenalltag, Museumsplatz 1, MuseumsQuartier, 1070 Vienna, www.gegenalltag.at
• Ina Kent, Lindengasse 46, 1070 Vienna, www.inakent.at
• Herr und Frau Klein, Kirchengasse 7, 1070 Vienna, www.herrundfrauklein.com
• la petite boutique, Lindengasse 25, 1070 Vienna, www.sandragilles.com
• Lichterloh, Gumpendorfer Strasse 15-17, 1060 Vienna, www.lichterloh.com
• Lila Pix, Lindengasse 5, 1070 Vienna, www.lilapix.net
• Lomo Shop, Museumsplatz 1, MuseumsQuartier, 1070 Vienna, www.lomography.com
• das möbel, Gumpendorfer Strasse 11, 1060 Vienna, www.dasmoebel.at
• Musiktank, Museumsplatz 1, MuseumsQuartier, www.musiktank.at
• Nachbarin, Gumpendorfer Strasse 17, 1060 Vienna, www.nachbarin.co.at
• Park, Mondscheingasse 20, 1070 Vienna, www.park.co.at
• St. Charles Cosmothecary, Gumpendorfer Strasse 33, 1060 Vienna, www.saint.info
• Das Studio, Kirchengasse 17, 1070 Vienna, www.das-studio.at
• Walter Weiss, Mariahilfer Strasse 33, 1060 Vienna, www.walterweiss.at
• Werkprunk, Kirchengasse 7/11, 1070 Vienna, www.werkprunk.com

Around the Naschmarkt

The Naschmarkt: Vienna's largest market

Vienna’s largest market is a mandatory destination for lovers of fine food and drink, featuring fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, cold cuts and cheeses, spices and gourmet vinegar. There is practically nothing that the Naschmarkt doesn’t have. And if that was not enough, there are countless chic bars and restaurants where visitors can enjoy a culinary break. On Saturdays the area adjoining the Naschmarkt is transformed into a flea market where antique dealers and private stallholders sell treasures and trinkets. While in the area, the neighboring streets are always worth a visit. Schleifmühlgasse boasts a burgeoning gallery scene and a variety of great shops. Choose between high quality vintage fashion from Flo, austere clothing designs from Jutta Pregenzer, classic 20th century furniture from Rauminhalt or one of the hundreds of cookbooks from Babette’s. Kettenbrückengasse, at the end of the Naschmarkt, has come on strong in recent years. Attractive knick knacks are on sale at Anna Stein, alongside eye-catching retro fashion from Bananas, delicious desserts and pralines from Fruth and the city’s most original souvenirs from WieWien. Designer boutique Elfenkleid is just a stone’s throw away, and just a short walk from feine dinge, where Sandra Heischberger’s porcelain designs are on sale.

Addresses

• Babette’s, Schleifmühlgasse 17, 1040 Vienna
• Bananas, Kettenbrückengasse 14, 1040 Vienna, www.bananas.at
• Elfenkleid, Margaretenstrasse 39, 1040 Vienna, www.elfenkleid.com
• feine dinge, Krongasse 20, 1050 Vienna, www.feinedinge.at
• Flohmarkt, Wienzeile, 1060 Vienna (U4 Station Kettenbrückengasse)
• Flo Vintage, Schleifmühlgasse 15 a, 1040 Vienna, www.vintageflo.com
• Fruth, Kettenbrückengasse 20, 1040 Vienna, www.fruth.at
• Naschmarkt, Wienzeile between Getreidemarkt and Kettenbrückengasse, 1060 Wien
• Jutta Pregenzer, Schleifmühlgasse 4, 1040 Vienna, www.pregenzer.com
• Rauminhalt, Schleifmühlgasse 13, 1040 Vienna, www.rauminhalt.com
• Anna Stein, Kettenbrückengasse 21, 1050 Vienna, www.anna-stein.com
• WieWien, Kettenbrückengasse 5, 1050 Vienna, www.wiewien.at

Off the beaten track

The 2nd District is only separated from the 1st District by the Danube Canal. Just a short stroll over the bridge is designer boutique Song, with collections from international fashion stars such as Maison Martin Margiela, Balenciaga and Bernhard Willhelm. The area around the Karmelitermarkt is coming back to life thanks to countless interesting shops and bars. Kabine in Glockengasse features fashions from young Viennese designers alongside fun accessories. Nagy knits pullovers and dresses from its own wools. And Wundertüte always has the right gift for adults and children.

The 16th District’s two large markets in Brunnengasse and on Yppenplatz are a magnet for new business ideas. Vienna jelly makers Staud’s has long been a fixture at the Yppenmarktwhere a lively bar and restaurant scene has gradually emerged. A short walk from the market, Mano Design on Grundsteingasse offers designer hand-finished porcelain.

Addresses

• Brunnenmarkt/ Yppenmarkt, Brunnengasse and Yppenplatz, 1160 Vienna
• Kabine, Karmelitergasse 6, 1020 Vienna
• Karmelitermarkt, Im Werd, Krummbaumgasse, Leopoldsgasse, Haidgasse, 1020 Vienna
• Mano Design, Grundsteingasse 36/1-3, 1160 Vienna, www.manodesign.at
• Nagy Strickdesign, Krummbaumgasse 2-4, 1020 Vienna
• Song, Praterstrasse 11-13, 1020 Vienna, www.song.at
• Staud’s Pavillon, Yppenmarkt 93, 1160 Vienna, www.stauds.com
• Wundertüte, Karmeliterplatz 2, 1020 Wien, www.wundertuete.at

Related posts:

1. Advent in Vienna
2. Vienna ‘great for market junkies’
3. Vienna – “Something Old & Something New”

No sooner has November drawn a thick curtain of drizzle and fog across the heavens and the days become steadily shorter, then some places sink into a deep melancholy. But not Vienna. Here the weeks leading up to Christmas are romantic and idyllic. The city shimmers in a mild glow of candles while the sweet aromas of gingerbread, mulled wine and Christmas baking pervade the air. The streets and shops are festively decorated and Christmas markets enchant young and old alike. Year in, year out.

Advent brings out the romantic side of Vienna in an air of expectant anticipation of Christmas. Downtown, garlands of glistening lights span the sky above Kärntner Strasse, Graben and Kohlmarkt. Thousands of tiny lights make up the imaginative Christmas illuminations that transform the main shopping thoroughfares Mariahilfer Strasse and Landstrasser Hauptstrasse into a festive sea of light. Many shop fronts are decorated with pine branches and colorful silk ribbons while gentle Christmas music wafts through the shopping arcades and sweet fragrances tempt passers-by to the numerous stands selling hot punch.

In Viennese homes the candles atop Advent garlands are gradually lit: one candle for each of the last four Sundays leading up to Christmas. The long evenings are spent recounting tales to one another, singing carols and making straw Christmas stars. Dark fruit bread is a favorite for those who like to nibble, as are plates decked with mandarins, nuts and dried figs.

 
Krampus, St. Nicholas and Advent Calendars

Advent is also the season for a custom that actually has nothing to do with Christmas at all — St. Nicholas (Nikolaus) Day on December 6, which is celebrated the evening before i.e. on December 5. The good bishop and his evil companion Krampus go from house to house, rewarding the good children and punishing the bad. Krampus, in his furry black garb, armed with a rod and a jangling chain, is a terrifying fellow. By contrast St. Nicholas appears in magnificent gold-embroidered robes complete with miter and crook. In a resounding voice he asks the children “Have you all been good?” When they answer “Yes” he gives them sweets, nuts, red apples and dates from his big sack.

For kids Advent is a great test of patience. The time leading up to Christmas Eve passes all too slowly, even when each day they are allowed to open one of the 24 windows on their Advent calendar to discover little pictures or gifts. Still, they can hardly wait till Christmas to see if their letters to the Christ Child (Christkind) have been answered: “Dear Christ Child, I drink my cocoa every morning and don’t pull the cat’s tail. Please bring me a railway set.”

The Magic of Advent in Vienna and Heavenly Choirs

Children who listen carefully might even hear the wings of a busy Christmas angel here or there, maybe at one of Vienna’s Christmas markets. These markets enchant young and old alike, bringing a sparkle to their eyes and a healthy red glow to their cheeks, whisking them off into a world of cinnamon aromas, shiny glass baubles, wooden rocking horses and the soft tinkling of bells.

The Magic of Advent transforms the park in front of City Hall into a festive fairy tale world. Vienna’s largest Christmas market has dozens of stands laden with beautiful gifts and mouthwatering delicacies. There are also delightful Christmas markets in the Biedermeier Spittelberg district, as well as in front of the Schönbrunn Palace, the Belvedere Palace, and on Maria-Theresien-Platz between the Museum of Fine Arts and the Natural History Museum.

Music is of special importance during Advent. There are choirs singing Christmas carols, concerts in abundance and family music. Apart from hinting at the joys to come it leaves a warming resonance. There is international carol singing at City Hall, afternoon choral concerts and brass ensemble performances on Freyung square every afternoon, and the daily Advent concerts in front of Schönbrunn Palace.The Christ Child himself only knows these artistic pleasures from hearsay. The closer Christmas Eve draws, the more stressed he gets, and he cannot spare a single moment. There is the mail to be taken care of — letters like “Dear Christ Child, Please don’t give me a railway set, I’d rather have a talking teddy bear” that require new arrangements. Finally, there is the cooking and baking for the Christmas celebrations. And there is still no Christmas tree, either!

Unwrapping Gifts beneath the Christmas Tree

Eventually the big day arrives. Christmas Eve has come, dusk is falling, Dad and the kids are in the park, and the Christ Child has all the time in the world to decorate the tree, with shining, colorful glitter balls, tinsel, sweets wrapped in colored tissue paper, and candles. He puts beautifully wrapped gifts under the tree, and then he is off to the next family.

As soon as Dad and the kids are back there is a mysterious rustle, a bell softly tinkles, the doors to the living room open and the children run to stand in front of the glittering tree. Together the family sings a Christmas song, usually Silent Night before opening their presents. What excitement – a railway set and a talking teddy bear! Thank you, Christ Child!

Christmas Goose and Stollen Fruit Loaf

When it comes to Christmas dinner, the Viennese fall into two groups. One half swears by Christmas carp, the other by Christmas goose. But everyone agrees on what makes up a classic plate of Christmas cookies: vanilla crescents, aniseed biscuits, meringue, cinnamon stars and Stollen fruit loaf are all essentials.

Late in the evening, sometimes as late as midnight, the faithful go to church to attend a candle-lit mass celebrating the birth of Jesus. This is the time when many churches set up nativity scenes, their tiny figures depicting the birth in the Bethlehem stable with the infant Jesus, Joseph and Mary, the donkey, cow and the three kings. Nativity scenes have a long tradition in Austria, also a forbidden one: Emperor Josef II banned them in churches, but then their presence increased in homes. The imperial ban has now been forgotten and many churches have lovingly crafted scenes on show. The most beautiful ones can be seen in the crypt of St. Peter’s in the city center.

Christmas Eve is followed by two public holidays, Christmas Day, when families usually remain among themselves and enjoy a festive meal, and Stefanitag (Boxing Day), which is traditionally reserved for visits to relatives. This is followed by a couple of work or rest days before Vienna springs to life again just before the coming of the New Year. New Year’s Eve sees thousands on a celebratory pilgrimage through the streets to the chiming of the Pummerin, the sonorous grand old bell in St. Stephen’s Cathedral. As the revelers ring in the New Year, their thoughts are already turning to the pleasures of the next Advent…

For all those who want to enjoy a little Viennese Christmas atmosphere at home, here is one of the many recipes for vanilla crescents:

Take 180g of butter, 70g of shelled and ground almonds, 50g of sugar, 2 egg yolks and 210g of plain flour. Quickly mix all the ingredients to a short-crust dough and leave it in a cool place for one hour. Roll out the dough to a thickness of about 1 cm before cutting into small pieces and forming crescent-shaped cookies. Place the cookies on an ungreased baking tray and bake at a moderate temperature (200°C) for around ten minutes or until they turn a light brown color. Mix icing sugar and vanilla sugar together, then toss the hot cookies in the mix. Store the cookies in a sealed tin for several days for them to become crumbly. But make sure they’re well hidden so nobody gets at them in advance.

For more information visit the Vienna tourist board
Book car hire in Vienna from Sixt

Related posts:

1. Vienna ‘great for market junkies’
2. Vienna keeps hold of most liveable city title
3. Christmas in Tirol

Brits looking for a Christmas to remember may want to head into Europe, an expert has suggested.

Tom Hall, travel editor for Lonely Planet, said had many cities have their own festive markets.

He commented that this is especially true of those events located in northern Europe.

Mr Hall said: “Cologne has several markets worth visiting, including one of Europe’s largest on the Neumarkt. Brussels combines a large market with an ice-skating rink.”

He added that Vienna is another good choice for car hire users looking for Christmas bargains, saying that this city is ideal for “market junkies”.

Mr Hall also said that there are all kinds of smaller markets throughout Vienna, stating that many people find these charming.

Those opting to stay in London for the festive period will be in one of the best value cities in Europe.

That is according to a recent Lonely Planet guide which ranked the capital alongside the likes of Thailand and Bulgaria in terms of value for money.

Related posts:

1. Vienna keeps hold of most liveable city title
2. Christmas treats for car hire in London users
3. Advent in Vienna